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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chili and palm sugar gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give enhanced flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on October 6, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and assemble all components on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the gravy. Melt the clarified butter in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a brief moment. Stir in the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until tender. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the heat, place lid and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the base of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, cook for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Ladle in one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with half the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining vegetable curry, then spoon on the remaining grains. Top with the rest of clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Remove of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "achari" describes seasoning a dish using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also features in all manner of curries and stir-fries, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the squash, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for five minutes more.

Add 50ml water to the pot, season with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a little, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and present hot with flatbreads or naan.